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  #11  
Old 02-08-2007, 02:47 PM
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^^afc will work on bolt-ons, but don't expect too much from it... even with proper dyno tuning, u're looking at 3-5 extra hp at most... even worst is obd2 tends to relearn its original factory setting, so it'll kinda "detune" itself altho ur afc still shows ur "tuned" specs

great write-up retro

btw, page 2 ownage!
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2007, 07:04 PM
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Nice write up shark!!! Thats basically everything i have purchased, I only needed the obd1 dizzy because iam using the H23 head. Also if any of you are planing on going with a piggy back system ie: Uber or Crome, you will need a eprom chip programmer and a UV chip eraser, along with a few minor things like caps and resistors. Retroshark you ever recieve that a6 mani or decide against it?
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:07 PM
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so if i want to tune my bolt-ons for a good nitrous run. you think OBDI > V-AFC/S-AFC?
that's what i was aiming for. but if OBDI is better, might as well do that.
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:25 PM
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^ OBD 1 would be better but it will also cost more I think.
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FallenAngelHIM
so if i want to tune my bolt-ons for a good nitrous run. you think OBDI > V-AFC/S-AFC?
that's what i was aiming for. but if OBDI is better, might as well do that.
obd1 is just the ecu... obd1 is just more tuneable than obd2.... after u swap in the obd1 ecu, u have more choices in terms of tuning softwares and hardwares and such... u can run safc/ vafc on the obd1, but u also have the choice now to use Hondata
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilvercord
^ OBD 1 would be better but it will also cost more I think.
negative... u just won't pass smog
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2007, 01:21 AM
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for fla, it dont matter

id rather be obd-i, but i dont see my self buying parts im only gonna use for 26 months
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2007, 12:52 AM
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The OBD1 injectors are not needed. You never choose injectors based apon the "OBD1 equivalent car"...you choose the injectors based on the ECU of choice (ideally). Peak and hold injectors will work with a saturated driver assuming you use a resistor box, but they will not work like they should once you start getting into the higher cc flow rates. Here's why:

The P28 (which comes from a 92-95 Civic Si) uses Saturated Injectors. If you use Peak and Hold injectors (the ones with the Resistor Box), you run the risk of burning your injector drive circuitry in the ECU.

The reason for this is because of how the ECU uses electrical current to tell the different types of injectors, saturated vs peak and hold, to open:

A saturated injector is one thats full of voltage and has a fairly high resistance. The resistance value for this injector will usually be in the 7-14 ohm range. Because of the resistance is high in these injectors, very little current is used to open them.

A peak-and-hold injector is one that must be fed a signal of high current in order to quickly open to its maximum flow point, and then uses a slightly lower amount of current to hold it open. (This is what type most higher flowing injectors are.) These injectors usually have a current of 2 to 4 ohms.

When you have a saturated injector driver trying to drive a peak and hold injector (Like using a P28 to run OBD1 Accord Injectors), you will have several problems:
1) The saturated driver may not be able to generate enough current to even initially open the peak and hold injector reliably.
2)Even if it can open the peak and hold injector, the saturated driver will probably not be able to maintain enough current to keep the injector open for the full pulse width.
3) The saturated driver will try and maintain that high current full current for the full pulsewidth. In other words, it's trying to "peak" for the whole pulsewidth. It never drops off to the "hold" level.
4) The driver can damage itself by continuing to try to drive more current than it was ever designed to.

Here is a pic of the waveform of saturated vs peak-and-hold injector drivers:


Here is a good reference list to what type of injectors come from what car:
http://www.allmotorhonda.com/techpages/injector.htm

Last edited by S-spec; 11-01-2009 at 03:41 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-14-2007, 01:46 PM
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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

...
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Last edited by AFAccord; 05-12-2008 at 12:31 AM.
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2007, 08:54 PM
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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

i have a JDM H22 engine from a 97-01 prelude and i plan on converting to
OBD1 using a P72 ecu...my question is, do i have to go through the same process...i know the OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness is a must but what about the other components?
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