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Old 10-22-2017, 08:36 PM
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JDM_Rook JDM_Rook is offline
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Anyone replaced thier Rack and Pinion?

Finally getting around to replacing a worn rack and pinion steering after procrastinating about 6 months. The directions state that you need to have the steering wheel pointed straight and locked. Problem is, I can only get it to lock in the 9 o'clock and 2:30 positions. It also wants you to remove airbag and wheel to prevent damage to cable reel. Couldn't i just leave it in the 2:30 position and mark the relationship on steering wheel and shaft when i remove it?, to put it back in the exact same spot. Want to make sure i get this right before i proceed any further.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:04 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Anyone replaced thier Rack and Pinion?

Originally Posted by JDM_Rook View Post
Finally getting around to replacing a worn rack and pinion steering after procrastinating about 6 months. The directions state that you need to have the steering wheel pointed straight and locked. Problem is, I can only get it to lock in the 9 o'clock and 2:30 positions. It also wants you to remove airbag and wheel to prevent damage to cable reel. Couldn't i just leave it in the 2:30 position and mark the relationship on steering wheel and shaft when i remove it?, to put it back in the exact same spot. Want to make sure i get this right before i proceed any further.
I haven't done a rack swap on an Accord yet (yes I have a rebuilt rack sitting here), but I think you've got a decent plan. Unplug the battery for at least 10 minutes before you start (shuts off the air bag), find the center of the wheel, and put a ring of masking tape at the top center, then go ahead a lock the steering wheel (or don't), and work on removing the rack. You'll find the lines are a royal PIA to remove (especially if they haven't been changed before) due to the very limited space Honda engineers gave us to work with.
Once you have the lines off, then it's just a matter of pulling the thru bolt out that connects the steering column to the rack. Once you've gotten that far, knock out the tie rod ends, and unbolt the rack from the cross member. According to the FSM, it goes out the right side.
I was looking into swapping mine out due to fluid leaks. I thought 1 of those 2 little lines had split open requiring dropping the rack to replace them (or the rack). Turned out it was the pressure line right next to the rubber holding block, and was spraying reward. Replacing the line fixed it for now, but the 2 small diameter lines are the only ones I haven't replaced yet.

I hope this helps.
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Last edited by Rusty Accord; 10-23-2017 at 12:09 AM.
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